“…unless I break it with the thrusting of my senses and pass through the splintered walls to the great landscape.”
Recently my parents came Oop North for a visit. Despite officially being Autumn now, miraculously the weather was surprisingly balmy and we had a great day out in Castleton, in Derbyshire.
The parental units are members of both English Heritage and the National Trust and seem to be on a mission to visit every property they can (
oh to be retired!). As such, we first went to Peveril Castle:
It’s a very very steep walk up, but well worth it. The castle is a ruined 11th-century castle which wasn’t really ever a ‘proper’ castle. The closest it came to seeing battle was in 1216, when King John gave the castle to William de Ferrers, but the castellan refused despite them both being the King’s supporters. De Ferrers was authorised to ‘use force’ but there’s no evidence that the castle was actually assaulted.
It was rebuilt a bit after King Henry III visited, but he never came back to see the result. It was used for local courts in the 1600s, but essentially just fell into disrepair and ruin. Which is a shame, but it looks very romantic and gothic now.
After the castle we stopped by one of the many pubs for a well-received drink and bite to eat. We only meant to get something small, but portions were HUGE! I still ate practically all of it. Think CB only got one chip.
After lunch we pootled round the shops. Everything is Blue John themed after one of the caverns nearby. Lots of pretty jewellery and trinkets, though we were most impressed by these fantastic encyclopaedic mugs
(ever wanted to learn all the bones in the human body while drinking your morning cup of tea?) though £20 for one mug was too much of a stretch. Plus how could you pick only one?
We then wanted to visit a cavern and, it getting on for 4pm by that point, there was only one closest we could get to before closing time. Peak Cavern, also known as:
Surprisingly, despite the name, the cavern was fantastic.
There are large flow stone (beautiful swirling white calcium carbonite deposits) formations in the entrance, and teeny tiny stalactites further inside the cavern, both of which would have taken hundreds and hundreds of years to form.
Cave exploration is still ongoing in the Peak Cavern system, but there’s a good 13 miles of caving that links with Speedwell cavern nearby. It is the longest cave system (so far discovered) in Derbyshire.
The tour started with a rope-making demonstration, which we thought would be rubbish but was really interesting! The entrance of the cavern was used from the 1600s to the late 1800s by rope makers, with the rope being used for the lead mining industry around Castleton.
Early visitors to the cave were taken round by the rope makers using only smelly tallow candles for light. So creepy! After the entrance, you have to bend double for a bit in order to enter the ‘Great Cave’, but originally visitors would have had to enter by climbing into a coffin-like boat and floating through a low archway. We don’t have to do that anymore as Queen Victoria flatly refused to travel like that, so they blasted her out a passageway (she was annoyingly short, old Queen Vic) as we walked through that.

The Great Cave is pretty impressive. Obviously when we were there it was lit with electric lights, but back in t'day they would have lit a firework to show visitors how big it was! The lights were turned out at one point (there was another group after us who were doing a soundscape - which we crashed and it was weird) and to be in the pitch darkness was quite unnerving. I can't imagine what it was like for someone to ride into the darkness in a coffin-boat to explore somewhere associated with the Devil!
The cavern floods and so the ‘Arsehole’ is actually a small hole where the water drains back. Quite a lot of pressure builds up and, unsurprisingly, when that pressure releases it makes the noise that you might associate with the Devil’s Arsehole…
*Quote from Mervyn Peake